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Rain. Afternoon clouds. Mild.
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About London
Each period of England's past, punctuated by monarchs, wars, fires and other disasters, has made an indelible imprint on the capital city. Yet even while embracing its history, London is a forward-looking, modern city. Witness the Millenium's London Eye, which joins Westminster Abbey, Buckingham Palace, The Tower of London and the Houses of Parliament as world-recognized icons of the city. Another obvious example is the culinary scene - New British cooking, as envisioned by renowned chefs such as Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, Antony Worrall Thompson, Marcus Wareing, Fergus Henderson and Tom Aikens, uses the best of regional ingredients in innovative, globally influenced ways; London also has outposts of celebrated restaurants like Nobu and Joël Robuchon. A profusion of cutting edge clubs and stylish bars like Tantra, Absolut IceBar, Bacchus and Lost Society Nightlife assure a high "hip" factor. Shopaholics thrill to know that London has stayed on top of the fashion game since the swinging '60s. Stop at venerable Harrod's of course, but then hotfoot it over to Sloan Street for trendy boutiques, or visit an eponymous shop - Stella McCartney, Amanda Wakely, Bruce Oldfield and many other designers maintain retail space here. Dozens of art galleries exhibit the most recent works by emerging artists, and if contemporary art is your thing, the Tate Modern is the best in Europe. Not surprisingly, London, balancing old and new with ease, is regarded as one of the world's most intriguing cities.
Keys to the City
Facts & Fundamentals
London's latest population figures run just over 7 million, counting the city's 32 boroughs and the independent City of London itself. This area is approximately 610 square miles (1580 sq km). When the metropolitan area (6267 square miles, or 16,231 sq km) is factored in, the population leaps to just shy of 14 million.
London charges what's known as a value-added tax (VAT) on purchases made at hotels, restaurants, and shops. It's incurred at a rate of 17.5%. For travelers outside of the EU, it can often be refunded, with some restrictions and a bit of personal diligence, usually after you return home.
Holidays & Business Hours
Business hours vary, depending on what sort of establishment you're discussing. Generally, Sunday is the week's least busy day, so if it's the only time you can visit, call your intended destination beforehand so you're not disappointed.
As a general rule, pub hours run from 11am to 11pm daily, except Sunday, when places close a bit earlier.
On national holidays, most businesses close or schedule abbreviated hours. Commonly, these days include:
| January 1 |
New Year's Day |
| Date varies |
Good Friday, Easter Monday |
| First Monday in May |
May Day |
| Last Monday in May |
Spring Bank Holiday |
| Last Monday in August |
Summer Bank Holiday |
| December 25 |
Christmas Day |
| December 26 |
Boxing Day |
|
Coming & Going
The bulk of travelers coming into London make their approach through one of the city's two main airports. Heathrow handles the greatest number of flights from the US and is the closest airport to the city (15 miles, or 24 km, west). The 15-minute Heathrow Express is a convenient way to reach Paddington Station. Gatwick (27 miles, or 43 km, south) also accommodates a growing proportion of travelers and is easily accessible, thanks to the Gatwick Express, which connects directly to Victoria Station.
For folks already on the Continent, efficient transportation makes quick time of the journey to London. High-speed ferry service runs from coast to coast, and train service picks up the remainder. If you're interested completely in rail service, a train through the Channel Tunnel (or "Chunnel") directly links Paris and London.
It's usually suggested that foreign travelers not drive in London, given an unfamiliarity with Britain's left-side driving conventions and the city's heavy traffic. Beyond those situations, the city, in an effort to cut down on congestion, charges a daily fee during the workweek for vehicles entering central London. If you've already rented a car for other portions of a trip, consider keeping it in a garage while in the city proper, and depend on public transportation for local travel. Do know, however, that garage parking can be quite expensive.
Making Your Way
Since a good portion of tourist destinations lie in the West End, it's easily manageable by walking if you're in town for a short time. If your stay is extended, trust London's well-maintained subway system (the "Tube") and its network of buses to get around. Both are separated into zones, and fares increase as you move outward. However, most travelers stay within Zone 1, which is where the city's most sought-after attractions lie. Tube tickets are only good for the day you buy them, but travelcards offer access for a longer period of time. Maps of the various Underground routes are color-coded and are easily understood with a bit of attention. Do be aware that you'll need your ticket to exit the train as well as to enter, so keep it handy. Also, the Tube doesn't run late-night, so plan for other travel between about 11pm and 5am.
Buses typically run round-the-clock, picking up Tube traffic in its off-hours. You'll need to buy tickets before you hop on board. If you're in a particular hurry, opt for one of the city's black cabs, which have a good record for cleanliness and efficiency.
News & Views
If you're trying to keep abreast of what's happening in London during your stay, Time Out is the most useful publication. It offers a wealth of up-to-date details on restaurants, shows, exhibitions, night clubs, and lots more. For reputable, well-reported news, look to the Guardian, the London Times, and the Daily Telegraph.
London radio stations cover everything from local and international news to pop and rock tunes. Some stations are funded by the BBC; others are independently managed.
Quirks & Curiosities
London observes Greenwich Mean Time, which runs 5 hours later than Eastern Standard Time. From late March till late October, British Summer Time is in effect, meaning that all clocks move forward one hour.
Since electricity in Great Britain runs at 240 volts, some international travelers may need to invest in a converter for personal hair dryers, shavers, and the like. Also required is an adapter that fits British outlets.
Air-conditioning is not a given in London, so inquire of your hotel before booking, or plan your vacation to avoid summer's hottest months.
Unlike many European countries, Great Britain opted not to adopt the euro. Thus, the pound sterling remains the basis of the monetary system.
Some higher-end restaurants have taken to billing a cover charge of £1-2 per table. It functions as a standard charge and will appear on the final bill. Some restaurants also require a credit card to hold a dinner reservation.
Getting Your Bearings
To help you get your bearings in London, don't neglect visitors' centers. They're often an invaluable resource for everything from hotels to theater tickets. The following are some of the best:
London Tourist Board
1 Warwick Row
SW1 E5ER
Victoria Station
020-6932-2000
Easter-Oct Daily 8am-7pm, Nov-Easter Mon-Sat 8am-6pm, Sun 9am-4pm
Britain Visitor Centre
1 Regent St
SW1Y 4LR
Haymarket
In person only.
Jul-Sep Mon-Fri 9am-6:30pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm
VisitBritain
Thames Tower
Black's Rd
W6 9EL
Hammersmith
020-8846-9000
If you should run into trouble, the emergency number for the police, fire department, or ambulance is 999.
Necessities - Post Offices
Sending or receiving mail in a foreign country can be a bit trying, at least until you figure out the system. To minimize hassles, get assistance from London's main post office:
24 William IV St
Trafalgar Square
WC2N 4DL
020-7484-9307, or 020-7930-9580
Mon-Sat 8am-6:30pm
Tube: Charing Cross and Leicester Square
Unlike the main branch, most post offices are usually open Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm and Sat 9am-12:30pm. Mail can be deposited in any of the red Royal Mail boxes, and stamps are often available at newsstands.
Common Courtesies
Although tipping is largely personal, some standards are customarily acceptable. In restaurants, for example, tipping ranges from 10% to 20%, with 15% being typical. Depending on the establishment, the tip may or may not be included on the bill, so make sure to check before you act. The same holds true with hotels, who often tuck gratuities into the tab.
Taxi drivers also merit 10% to 15% of the total cost (unless it's a short trip, in which case, the gratuity is more), and tour guides frequently receive £3 for their efforts. Don't, however, tip servers in pubs, and don't tip ushers in theaters. They don't expect it.
If in doubt, £1 can go a long way. It's a safe bet to present folks who carry your bags, arrange for a taxi, or bring room service.
Weather
Although it's not completely without basis, London's reputation for having perennially wet weather and constant pea-soup fog is largely untrue. Dampness is somewhat common, especially during the winter, but mild days are more the rule than the exception. Even so, the temperate capital's four seasons can include often-hot summers and cold winters. As a result, most folks choose to visit during spring, early summer, and fall. Winter temperatures typically reach to the low-30s Fahrenheit (-1° Celsius), and summer temperatures generally reach the mid-70s Fahrenheit (24° Celsius).
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