You don't need to dig too deeply to get a sense of Budapest's history. A simple walk through the stretching boulevards of Pest or the cobbled streets of Buda will give you an idea that these two chalk-and-cheese areas once existed as separate cities. They opened their arms to the nearby area of Óbuda (located to the north of Buda), and the three fell together in the late 19th century to form the cosmopolitan destination we know today as Budapest. Evidence of Roman activity in the area reveals the popularity of this region way before the 19th-century unification of Buda, Pest and Óbuda. The latter area, in particular, contains remnants of Roman dwellings in the shape of a ruined amphitheatre, just off Lajos utca. The crumbled chunks of stone clearly form the circular shape that would have constituted the foundation of the amphitheatre but, testament to the city's tendency to nestle modernity next to history, the site sits in a park where locals walk their dogs, in the middle of a bustling neighbourhood. It was the invasion of the Magyars in the 890s AD that had the most profound impact on the region, however. The tribe spread across this portion of Europe, soaking the land with their style of language and traditions on the area. It's reputed that Buda is actually named after the brother of the Magyar leader and king of the Huns, Attila. The term 'Magyar' is still used in modern language and the significance of this chapter in the country's history is encapsulated in the meaning of the word: Hungarian.

Budapest is served by Ferihegy Airport, a well-resourced facility that is continually expanding as tourism and other industries grow. Most major airlines, including British Airways, serve the airport, as well as central-European airlines such as Wizz. Other ways to visit the city include by train (Pest's Keleti train station is also a main entry point for the city), or even by river: tours can be taken along the Danube, which flows in from Slovakia and out to Serbia.

The airport is situated around 20km from the city centre; the easiest way to travel from the airport is by taxi. Simply leave the terminal and you'll usually find a queue of taxis waiting. These are conveniently all managed by a member of staff manning a cubicle who will ask where you're going and tell you how much the journey will cost. Don't worry, there is a set fee (4600 HUF to Pest; 5100 HUF to Buda) for the journey, so no haggling should be involved. If the taxi price is a little steep, take one of the buses from just outside the airport, though these can be less convenient if you have a lot of luggage. Otherwise, a train runs from terminal one to Nyugati station, close to Margaret Bridge on the Pest side. While Budapest is significantly larger than a counterpart such as Prague, the public transport system makes it wonderfully easy to navigate. An excellent tram system runs throughout both Pest and Buda. Though there are some rickety, old-fashioned trams still being used, the system is being updated with sleek, air-conditioned modern ones, but either way, the system runs regularly everyday. Tickets should be bought at Metro ticket booths and then 'punched in' on board the tram. These tickets can also be used for underground (the Metro) and overground (the HÉV) trains, as well as the buses (autóbusz). It's definitely worthwhile asking for a book of 10 tickets (2350 HUF), so that you're not worrying about queuing for a ticket each time you travel, and it's important you do validate your ticket on each journey: plain-clothes inspectors regularly patrol the transport system and they will give you an on-the-spot fine should you attempt to travel for free.

Two English-language newspapers are available in Budapest: the Budapest Sun and the Budapest Times. There are some English-language magazines, including the Budapest Business Journal, and you can usually pick up imports from bookstores selling English-language books. Various websites are in English, but many, such as xpatlink.hu, are slanted towards the expat population. However, these are still useful to help you plug into the local scene. For a lighter take on the city, there is pesticide.hu.

One of the main advantages of having distinctive embankments is that you need only look to the riverside to gain an idea of your location. The parliament building on the Pest riverbank and Buda Palace perched extravagantly on its Buda hillside are ideal points from which to get your bearings. If you find yourself in the thick of Buda, you can jump on a tram heading for Moszkva ter. This is a central point in Buda, a 10-minute walk from Margaret Bridge, filled with cafes, restaurants and the shopping centre Mammut II. If it's Pest you're in, boarding either a number 4 or 6 tram will take you to the riverside. Tourist offices around the city provide maps and information about local events. Look for signs for 'Tourinform.' In Buda, there is one near Fishermen's Bastion; in Pest, look near the busy but centrally located Deak ter.

Learning to say 'thank you' in Hungarian will go a long way in making your stay in Budapest memorable. Don't be daunted by the word - 'köszönöm'. Many words in Hungarian look overbearingly long, but there is actually a logical simplicity to the language: those long words are actually made up of smaller ones. A long Hungarian word, then, usually literally translates to a phrase (the word for goodbye ­ 'viszontlátásra', pronounced 'veez-on-la-tash-ro' ­ translates to 'see you later'). So, make the effort of saying 'köszönöm' (pronounced 'curs-en-nurm') to gain a fuller insight into Hungarian hospitality.